There’s no place like home (Or is there?)

First published: 6 July, 2004

I went home this weekend. Not the odd little wooden cabin in Colorado but my original home, across the water, land of my ancestors, Great Britain. See me and Braveheart? We go way back. This is the fourth time I’ve been back to Britain since migrating to the Yooessuvay but for the first time, something strange happened. It didn’t feel like home.

On every other visit there’s been the reassuring feeling of returning to the place I knew best, the familiar, the comfortable. This time it felt…foreign. Each previous trip has been made as a Phoenix resident, a place in which as I’ve stated before, I was never really happy living. Now for the first time, I was returning to Britain from Colorado, a state in which I am hopelessly, helplessly and totally, in love. Although it might sound like I’m stating the obvious, it came as something of a surprise to me. After 13 years, Britain is no longer home, Colorado is.

The phenomenon first evidenced itself when my folks picked us up at the airport and helped us carry our bags out to the car park. Have British cars always been that small? There’s nothing wrong with small cars of course, I happen to think those of us in America are going to have to adapt to more fuel economical vehicles sooner or later, but it did feel decidedly odd. Then, once we were all aboard, my Dad did a very strange thing. He set of driving on the left side of the road. Now I was in my late twenties when I left Britain, learned to drive there and everything and have piloted a rental car there as a visitor without a problem so it was strange that I should find this so disconcerting. However, as we approached our first roundabout (“traffic circle” if you speak American) it was all I could do to avoid flinching as dozens of little cars came hurtling at us from all directions.

It’s pretty obvious that the architecture would look different from that in the US of course. Here we tend to tear down old buildings to make way for new ones and anything more than fifty years old is positively historic. I grew up in a house built before the Second World War and that was by no means old. Also, architectural styles tend to vary from one region to another, even within countries (although it seems every designer of modern houses works from the exact same textbook, but let’s save that rant for another day) so naturally, the buildings wouldn’t look the same as those in Bailey, Colorado. What was mystifying to me however, was just how…odd they appeared. I grew up with this after all. My folks live on the west coast of Scotland where the older houses are built from red sandstone, the newer in brick covered in a weatherproof surface called pebbledash. This is where the builders coat the walls with mortar and throw tiny pieces of gravel against it. The Light of my Life™ hates the look and has stated that should we ever move to Britain, we’ll need to chip it all off and coat the house with something else. Not too sure what she has in mind, the wood siding we have on our Bailey home wouldn’t last through a British summer, much less a winter.

And then of course, there’s the funny money. I’ve yet to read an American journalist’s account of a visit to Britain that doesn’t contain some mention of the funny money. Britain’s money is of course, no funnier than that of any other country. It’s just that unlike America, where every bill looks exactly the same and you have to examine each in turn to see what it’s worth, in other countries, each denomination is a different size and a different colour. Straightforward enough, so why did it all seem so complicated to me? Well, in my defence I have to point out that also unlike America, Britain tends to change the appearance of its currency every few years; partly to keep the counterfeiters on their toes, partly to provide work for currency designers and partly to give people something else to grumble about.

So on this trip I was having to adapt to a range of notes and coins completely unfamiliar to me. A big problem here of course, is that other than a slight American twang, which I’m told has crept into my speech over the years, when I’m in Britain, I don’t sound like a foreigner. So rather than a tourist fumbling with the unfamiliar currency, a creature to whom all but the most cold-hearted will allow some leeway, here we had a middle aged guy, looking and sounding like a local, but totally befuddled by the concept of money. I’m sure some of them thought I was simply being allowed a special day out. “It’s marvellous how they teach them to fend for themselves these days, isn’t it?” There’s no place like The Home, right enough.

The food was different, the television was different, and the accents, boy did they sound strange to my ears. Why was this suddenly so noticeable this time, when it’s only three years since my last visit? I really don’t know. It’s apparent I’m finally assimilating into the life of an American but have things really changed that much during my absence? Maybe during all those unhappy years in Phoenix, there was always some part of me that felt this was only temporary and one day I would return to Britain. Now I’m a Coloradan, I’ve been able to let that part of me go.

Earlier in the year I wrote about a visit we paid to some friends who live in a loft in downtown Denver. I talked in glowing terms about the beauty of their home and the conveniences right on their doorstep. I went on to say how we crawled our way through a blizzard to make it back to our little house up in the mountains, and how despite the shabby furnishings, gloomy lighting and ever present aroma of dog, this was without a doubt our home. As we walked in the door, after almost 24 hours of traveling, tired, cranky and not a little spacey, there was no doubt in my mind.

I’ll be a Scot until the day I die, but Bailey, Colorado; that’s home.

Garden of the Gods

First Published: 29 June, 2004

I just spent a couple of days working down near Colorado Springs. I wasn’t really working, I was attending a conference but I did speak for 90 minutes on one of the days and I got paid for the whole thing, so it counts as working. Kick off was 7:45am on the first day, which meant I’d to rise at an even more ungodly hour (see what I did there?) than normal ready for the two-hour drive down there. The good news was that the journey itself, down Highway 126 through Pine is one of the prettiest around and there are worse ways to spend an early summer morning. Colorado Springs is one of the few places in this state which holds little appeal for me. Fortunately, the conference wasn’t in the town itself, but in a nearby park called The Garden of the Gods.

The park is a magical place of towering spires and balanced boulders, with sheer cliff walls soaring upwards towards the Colorado sky. These massive rocks of white and red are remnants of sandstone sediment laid down in ages past and long covered by an inland sea. Mountain uplifts within the past 75 million years not only drained the water by also twisted, turned and tilted the rock layers into upright positions. The process of erosion then stripped away the soft sedimentary layers, sculpting each rock into its distinctive form.

The mild climate, enchanting wildflowers, abundant game and heavenly scenery led early Indians to revere the place as home to the Good Spirit, however the area was generally overlooked by the explorers and mountain men who first passed through the Pikes Peak region. In fact, Pike’s Peak is named after one Zebulon Pike, who missed the area altogether. The major attractions of the early 1800s were the “highest peak” and the “boiling fountains” where the town of Manitou sits today. Despite this early indifference, the red rocks continued to beckon, the soaring fingers being visible to travellers more than thirty miles away. The adventurer Rufus B. Sage wrote a best selling book entitled “Rocky Mountain Life” which extolled the virtues of the area and in time, the wonders of the Pikes Peak region became known nationwide.

Another Rufus played an important part in the Park’s history, one Rufus Cable who with his friend, Melancthon Beach, rode down from Denver City in 1859 to lay out a new town at the foot of Pikes Peak. They named their new town Colorado City after the nearby red rocks (Colorado stems from “rojo”, the Spanish for red). The pair visited the rocks soon after their arrival and Beach immediately suggested that the place would one day serve as a great spot for a beer garden. “Why, it is a fit place for the Gods to assemble”, replied Cable, “and we will call it the Garden of the Gods”. It didn’t seem to appear to either of them that the Gods may have enjoyed the occasional cold one because the beer garden never transpired but the place has indeed been known as the Garden of the Gods ever since.

In the late 1870s there was however, a large beer saloon located under the rock formation fondly known as the Kissing Camels, one of a number of money making enterprises hoping to exploit the natural beauty of the site. These included a stairway climbing to the top of one of the spires, Gateway Rock built by a speculator named Billy Bryan who owned a nearby resort where he celebrated the 4th of July with fireworks and moonlight dances. In 1895 a group of entrepreneurs announced their plans to build a streetcar line from Colorado City to the Garden. At the terminus they planned a casino, a restaurant and a magnificent glass structure called the glass palace which they intended to house plant specimens from around the world. Perhaps not surprisingly in lieu of the $600,000 estimated construction costs, the project never got off the ground. One scheme which sadly, did take place was the establishment of a gypsum quarry mine in the park. The resulting trench like scar is still visible today.

Cable and Beach were the first to lay claim to the land surrounding the Garden of the Gods although numerous land claims were established over the next few years. In 1879, at the advice of his friend General William Palmer, the founder of Colorado Springs, the park was acquired by one Charles Perkins, who intended to build a summer home there. His occupation as president of the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy Railroad for the most part, kept him away from Colorado and management of the park was left to a gentleman named Henry Wills, who for twenty-five years paid the taxes, oversaw the removal of trash and debris, and kept the giant rocks open and free to all visitors.

Perkins died in 1907 but shortly before is reported to have scribbled a note on an old envelope, outlining his desire to have the Garden of the Gods given over to the city of Colorado Springs. His family honored this wish and in 1909, the city voted to accept the gift. The reason this required a vote is that Perkins established certain restrictions. Namely that the property be forever known as the Garden of the Gods; that no buildings be erected there, except those necessary to properly maintain the area as a public park,; that no intoxicating liquors be sold (there goes my last hopes for a beer garden!) and that it be forever free to the public. Violation of these restrictions would result in the property being returned to Charles Perkin’s heirs and as of today, they are still being honoured.

My conference was being held at the Garden of the Gods club, a private resort overlooking the park. My room opened out onto lush green lawns populated by a seemingly inexhaustible supply of rabbits, that didn’t seem to be the slightest bit perturbed by my presence, even when I wandered close. The room was the kind which was too luxurious to want to waste time asleep and as it happens, I didn’t do too much of that. We were home late from dinner and I was up early the next day to get in some exploring before having to go back indoors and earn my keep.

You can certainly see why the Gods would want this place as a garden, beer or no. In this setting, one couldn’t help but feel close to them.